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Is there a way to convert plain quotes to smart quotes on export only? Or, alternatively, is there a way to use smart quotes as a tag?
First, disable the Smart Quotes option in Ulysses > Preferences > Standard Mode. Then, enable "Convert quotation marks" in Exporter you need and set the required quotation mark type.
In a document started with smart quotes enabled, how can I convert all smart quotes to plain quotes?
You can use Ulysses' Search & Replace feature for this. Open it using Project > Search and Replace… or press Cmd-R, then enter the quote at the top (unfortunately, you cannot simply copy it from the Editor, but you can use the keyboard shortcut or use Edit > Special Characters…) and enter the regular quotes at the bottom in the "Replace with" text field.
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